The Pantry
(Almost) Everything You Need To Know About Asian Cooking
Basil - You'll no doubt find more than one variety of basil at the supermarket. The Asian variety is more pungent
and stronger with an anise-like taste than either the French or Italian varieties. You can, however, use any of the three with an Asian
recipe. But use only fresh basil, never dried. Bean sauces - Bean sauces (including brown bean sauce, brown bean paste and
yellow bean sauce) are made from soybeans, flour, salt and water, and come in bottles or tins. If you use a tinned variety, transfer the
bean sauce to a glass jar. It'll keep in a refrigerator that way almost indefinently. Bok choy - In the old days, this was called Chinese cabbage. Napa cabbage can
be substituted. Cardamom - A member of the ginger family, cardamom is one the world's most
expensive spices. It is grown in India and Sri Lanka. The dried seeds can be either black or brown in color and, ground or whole, are
found as an ingredient in many curries. Chili peppers - They come in a variety of colors and strengths. The most common
kinds used (primarily) in SE Asian cuisine are capsicum chilies (mild), red chilies (medium), green chilies (moderately hot), and bird's eye
chilies (hot!). Remember: the seeds are what provide the 'heat' in chili peppers. When chopping, grinding or cleaning, always use
caution; never rub your eyes! Chili powder - Asian chili powder is different from Mexican chili powder (which is
mostly ground cummin), and is much hotter. But I've used Mexican chili powder-- the kind found most often on supermarket spice
shelves-- without any trouble. Chili sauce - Sometimes, in the US, a meat relish will be called chili sauce. That isn't
what you want in your Asian pantry. Instead, look for both the Chinese and SE Asian varieties and keep both on hand (don't confuse
these, either, with sambal). Tabasco sauce could be used in a pinch. Cinnamon - Native to Sri Lanka, you should buy cinnamon sticks rather than ground
cinnamon, if only because the ground variety loses it flavor faster. TOP Cooking oils - See "Oils". Corn starch - I've seen this also called corn flour. Corn starch is the white powder that is used as a thickening agent in many Asian sauces. Do not confuse this with corn meal, yellow and gritty, that is used to make breads or to crisp pizza crusts. Tapioca starch can
also be used as a substitute for corn starch. Cutlery - A sharp cleaver is a must. Serrated-edge knives don't have many
uses in Asian cooking, so plan to acquire a set of good straight-edge cutlery instead. You'll be doing a lot of chopping, slicing and
dicing (and 'butterflying' shrimp, too). Cilantro - Also known as Chinese parsley or coriander. The plant's crushed, dried seeds
are the main ingredient in curry powder. The fresh leaves are found in recipes from Thailand, Myanmar, India, Vietnam and China, where
it is also known as 'fragrant green'. Dashi - Dashi is made from bonito (dried fish) flakes and is used primarily as a
rich fish stock in Japanese cooking. A quick way to make dashi is to use hon-dashi, a granulated product (1 Tbs added
to 1 cup boiling water makes 1 cup of dashi). Otherwise, you'll be boiling and straining fish flakes all day. Fermented bean curd - See "Tofu". Garam masala - A mixture of ground spices used in a lot of Indian cooking. You can
make your own or buy a prepared blend in stores. Garlic - Garlic is a member of the onion family and is a vital ingredient in Asian cooking,
used not only for its flavoring but also its health-giving properties. (An Asian culture or two, though, believe that garlic inflames 'baser'
passions.) Learn to mince or grate garlic well; learn, too, to never overcook it. Ghee - Clarified butter, pure butter fat without any milk solids. It can be heated to a higher
temperature than regular butter without burning. Ginger - A member of the rhizome family. Use only fresh ginger root;
powdered ginger's flavor is quite different. To preserve fresh ginger for long periods of time, scrape the skin from the ginger root, divide
into sections, then pack into a clean, dried jar. Pour a dry sherry into the jar to completely cover the ginger. Cover tightly and store in
the refrigerator. Hoisin sauce See also Sauces. - Made from
soy beans, garlic and spices, it is a sweet, spicy, and thick sauce, and keeps indefinently in a covered jar or bottle. Lemon grass - A tall grass with sharp edges. Its bulbous base is used to impart a lemony
flavor to curries. Best used when fresh, but dried lemon grass can also be used. Substitute 12 dried strips for one fresh stem, or substitute
2 strips of very thinly peeled lemon rind. Mirin - A sweetened Japanese rice wine (sake). Mirin imparts, without adding
sugar, a subtle sweetness to stocks and sauces. A dry sherry can be substituted. Miso - Fermented bean paste. Japanese thick soups are mostly based on miso,
which comes in white, red and brown colors. One (1) Tbs of miso paste to 1 cup hot water is the standard measure. Mushrooms - They can be bought fresh or dried. Dried black Chinese mushrooms
(doong gwoo) impart a much more earthy taste than their Japanese shittake counterpart. Soak in a bowl of
warm water for 15-20 minutes before slicing and cooking. Other common varieties of fresh or canned Asian mushrooms include
STRAW MUSHROOMS (nameko) and WOOD FUNGUS (kikurage).
SILVER FUNGUS is very rare, prized for its appearance and crunchy texture, and used only for festive occasions. Noodles - I still get confused by all the different varieties of noodles that can be
used in Asian cooking. Japanese noodles are different from Chinese noodles, and are more often found in soups:
SOBA are thin, buckwheat noodles; SOMEN(or RAMEN) are thin, white noodles
made from wheat flour; UDON are thick wheat flour noodles. (I use UDON for
Japanese fried noodles (yakisoba/yakiudon), too. HARUSAME (Chinese equivalent = FEN SZU or
FUN SEE) are fine noodles that become translucent when soaked or boiled, and work well for salads. Similar to harusame are
SHIRATAKI, which are used in sukiyaki. Chinese noodles include: DAHN MIN,
egg noodles made from wheat flour that are sold in packets of 7 or 8 bundles; HO FUN are rice noodles that come
in varying thicknesses; MI FUN, a rice vermicelli, are thin strands that can be used in soups, or deep-fried and
used as bed for Cantonese chow mein or hot hors d'oeuvres; FUN SEE are transparent
noodles, also known as "spring rain noodles"; E MIN are soft, fried noodles that are most often found in stir-fried
dishes; CHOW MIN (né MEIN) are first boiled, drained and dried, then deep-fried. Oils - Cooking oil - I prefer PEANUT OIL for frying. It has a high smoking point and
is quite neutral in taste. Seasoning oils - A little bit of HOT CHILI OIL goes a l-o-n-g way. And I use
SESAME OIL, mixed with peanut oil, for wok stir-frying or braising. Rice - Known as fan in Chinese and gohan in Japanese, rice is
considered the staple grain of Asia. (Ironically, there is actually more wheat than rice grown in China.) There are many
varieties of rice; learn the differences between long-, medium-, and short-grained rice. Short-grained rice, when washed of starch
before boiling, becomes very 'sticky'; medium-grain rice, such as Thai jasmine rice, will clump up nicely, too, after boiling. There
isn't any reason to use a long-grain rice in Asian cooking unless it's the only variety you have available. Avoid 'converted' rice at
all costs. Rice flour - Wheat flour cannot be substituted. Use rice flour to create a
lighter texture for deep-frying batters. Ground rice can also be used for batters and other mixtures, and will result in a crisper
texture. Rice wine - Both Japanese (sake) and Chinese (shaoxing)
varieties abound and can be used interchangeably (though I use sake for Japanese recipes and shaoxing for
Chinese recipes). If you can't find rice wine, you can substitute a dry sherry or dry white wine. I don't know of any non-alcholic rice
wines; if alcohol is not recommended for your diet, you should substitute a non-alcoholic dry white wine or even apple juice (but not
cider) for rice wine. Saffron - Undoubtedly the world's most expensive spice. The threads are deep-orange
in color and have a strong perfume. Turmeric is sometimes marketed as "Indian saffron," but is not the same as the real
thing. Salts (incl. MSG) - I use common table salt most of the time, but you
can also use sea salt or kosher salt for some recipes. MSG (monosodium glutamate) is actually an extract from grains and vegetables
and is tasteless, but acts as a catalyst to enhance flavors. If you're using fresh ingredients and good seasonings, there isn't
any real reason to use MSG. However, I do keep some MSG-coated salt in my pantry to duplicate some of those well-known
restaurant flavors. Sauces - Seasoning sauces - the backbone of Asian cuisine. No pantry
should be without soy sauce, oyster sauce, hoisin sauce and fish sauce (nuoc nam or nam pla).
SOY SAUCE comes in both dark and light varieties. The former is not as salty as the latter but does have a
much stronger flavor. You can keep both on hand, but will find that you use light soy sauce much more often.
TAMARI SAUCE can be substituted for soy sauce. Blended sauces - Learn to make
TERIYAKI SAUCE. It's good as a marinade or sauce ingredient for meats and vegetables. Seasoning oils - See "Oils". Seaweed - A good source of natural salt, seaweed is most often used in Japanese
cuisine. Don't confuse the different varieties. NORI, blueish-green in color, comes in sheets or large flakes, and
is used for sushi; KOMBU, a dried kelp that comes in broad grayish-black ribbons, is used for flavoring
dashi and sushi rice, and can also be pickled for a relish; HIJIKI is a dried seaweed used as a
vegetable in soups. It must be soaked before cooking. WAKAME is another dried seaweed that is soaked but
used for salads, soups or vinegared relishes. Spices - Always have on hand Curry Powder, 5-spice Powder, Ground Clove, Ground Cardamon, Ground Cinnamon, Cayenne Pepper, Chili Powder, Ground Coriander, Nutmeg, Ground Turmeric, Ground Cumin and both White & Black Ground Pepper. I also keep sesame and carraway seeds around, too. Star anise - It's the 8-pointed fruit of an evergreen native to China, and is essential to
good Chinese and SE Asian cuisine. Tofu - Tofu is made from fermented soy bean curd. Originally from China, tofu has been used in Japanese cooking for a thousand years. Not only is tofu low in fat and high in protein, it is cholesterol free, versatile, and inexpensive. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of ways to prepare tofu as part of a vegan diet or in combination with vegetables and meat. Vinegar - Do not use Western vinegars (apple cider vinegar, et al.); use only
rice wine vinegar for Asian cooking. There are almost as many varieties of rice wine vinegar as there are rice wine. Chinese vinegars
tend to be darker in color and stronger tasting than the clear Japanese variety. Keep some of both on hand. You'll learn over time
which one is appropriate for a particular recipe (e.g. use Chinese rice wine vinegar for hot 'n sour soup). Wasabi - This is different from Japanese mustard and is a pungent green horseradish-like
sea vegetable used most often with sushi. It comes packaged in powdered and dried form (just add water to reconstitute it), but I'm
also seeing it packaged wet in plastic tubes at Asian food markets. Wines - Rice wine (either sake or shaoxing) is preferred. But you
can easily substitute dry sherry or a dry white wine (and sometimes brandy) if you can't find the real thing. Wok - I use three kinds ... a large, heavy-duty wok for deep-frying and stir-frying large quantities
of food; a smaller, hammered, handled wok for everyday stir-frying and steaming; and an electric wok that works wel for something like
imperial fondue (steamboat) or sukiyaki. If you have room for only one wok in your pantry, buy a hammered wok (and large
bamboo steamer). The hammered sides are great for holding vegetables in place so they don't become soggy if you use the wok for
steaming with the wok cover on. |